The first time I put some wood to this blade I could not believe what happened. It felt almost as if there were no blade. It cuts very smoothly and with little effort. Also, since I can cut boards at a faster feed rate, I have not seen any burn marks on any of my boards, yet. I will buy another one for my miter saw next. It is worth the money.

This is my second purchase of same blade. Could not pass up great price and added discount for deck building items that amazon offered. $78 was a steal! This blade stays on my PM66 all the time for all cuts. Clean and smooth through any material. Gets plenty of work in my shop as the TS is the workhorse tool. I waited for the great deal to have a second blade for the day when I need to send back the original back to Forrest for sharpening.

I recently upgraded to a new Delta 36-982 10" contractor's saw from an old Crafstman 10" model. I decided I was tired of poor cuts and burn marks, and since I don't have a good jointer, I'd better have a good blade to match my nice new saw, so I sprung for the Forrest after reading lots of reviews.

So far I couldn't be happier with the new blade (and saw). On straight oak boards, it really does cut nice enough for glue-ups without jointing the edges. Even with some slightly twisted oak that was a challenge to get through the cuts easily, the blade left minimal cut marks. I was really amazed.

It's tough for a hobbiest woodworker to justify a $90 saw blade, but in the lognrun, I'm sure it's the best thing to do. And, like many have reccommended, to protect my investment I will probably send it back to Forrest when it's time to resharpen.

Previous to purchasing this blade I had never paid more than $50 for a blade. I was reluctant to purchase it because the price and I thought my blade was fine until I started reading the reviews on Forrest blades having a smooth edged glue line rip potential. I had always cut my stock a little bigger to allow for jointing or planing to get rid of the awful blade marks caused by my old blades. So I gave the Forrest Woodworker II a try and got the 1/8" kerf (.125) to match my old blades so I wouldn't have to tweak my Jet Contractor table saw. When the blade arrived I was very impressed with the quality of it right out of the box, and the ability to send the blade in to get re-sharpened was a big plus. When I first installed the blade and turned the table saw on I wasn't very impressed with it as it was about as loud and vibrated just as much as my other blades. I ripped a few boards and was impressed by how it cut with no problem, but there was still blade marks on the wood. I thought I got a dud blade. I checked the table saws calibrations again, but they were pretty much dead on using incra guaranteed squares and a stabila level. I was pretty ticked by this point. Later that night I got online and looked at reviews and tried to investigate why the Forrest blade wasn't performing well. I found and purchased the 5" blade stabilizer and read about and then purchased the Power Twist V-Belt all in hopes of correcting the problem. When the items arrived I first just installed the Power Twist V-Belt to replace the auto belt on the table saw. I noticed an immediate difference in loudness and vibration. The saw was extremely quiet and very little to no vibration at startup and while running no vibration. I ripped a few boards and finally got a great edge rip, but there were still a few minor scratches here and there. I then installed the Forrest 5" blade stabilizer. I ripped a few more boards and finally got a perfect glass like glue line rip. Now I will never use another saw blade for my shop table saw. The Forrest Woodworker II blade works as advertised, but you must have a completely dialed machine for it to perform to that standard.

No complaints whatsoever with the Forrest Woodworker II. It's my go to blade for practically all cuts. The only time I don't use it is when I need a dado cut.

....HO-O-O-LY COW! I had a Freud blade on my Jet table saw that made cross cuts that were ready for gluing right off the table. But when it came to rips, the Freud burned everything. I tried everything - adjusted, trued, cleaned, cussed, but to no avail. What time I saved on cross cuts, I lost on sanding rip cuts. So, I read and I read about saw blades and despite the price tag, I finally covered my eyes and pushed the one-click button for the Forrest Woodworker II. Well, I got the blade the next day, installed it and tried it out. Wowsers! It makes a satisfying whistle as it gets up to speed and then hardly a sound as it cuts hardwood like a knife through hot butter. The blade is heavy and rigid and polished and balanced and sharp as a razor. They send the blade in a box with a return address so when you need to resharpen, you stick it into the box and poof, it's on its way. (BTW, right now it's $22.50 to resharpen this particular blade.) You know how when you watch Norm or those other woodworking gurus their saws just whisk through lumber like it's trick photography? Well, it's not the camera, it's the way a Forrest blade really cuts. Can't say enough good things about it.

i recently bought a used PM66, and got this blade to replace the completely worn and warped on that the previous owner had on the saw.

aligned the tables and fence, put the new blade on, set the fence to 3" and ran a 2x4 through, and my digital micrometer says 3.000.

what else needs to be said?

The nicest blade I have owned. Does a great job. And included instructions on setting up the fence and using burn marks on the cut piece to set the fence correctly very helpful. And Amazon is the cheapest place to buy the blade, no tax, and free shipping (3 day delivery).

Cuts great. Very sharp. No wood burn on long rips. Blade was off by 4/1000 when measured with a dial indicator. Much better than my previous Freud blade, but expected a little more accuracy at this price.

I am a weekend warrior, serious do it yourselfer, hobby woodworker. I owned a Freud combination blade for about two years, and although that was a fine blade, it did have quite a few short comings. I decided to go with the Forrest blade, and it really does live up to the hype. The teeth are ground flush to the plate, that's how you get nearly jointer quality cuts with little or no need for a 1/32" clean up pass on the jointer. The cross cuts are almost splinter free, even on veneer plywood/MDF. The 30 degree ATB will, I imagine, wear at a faster rate than 15 or 20 degree (despite the extra hard C4 grade carbide), but that is the price you pay for such clean cross cuts. I have the blade mounted on a Hitachi contractor/home shop saw (C10FL model) and despite the 1.5HP motor, this blade does a pretty darn good job of ripping thick hardwoods (purpleheart, maple, bloodwood, etc.). However, I do use a dedicated 20T rip blade when I have a lot of wood to rip to rough size. I don't know how long this blade will go before I need to send it to Forrest for sharpening, but if I follow their care instructions and never accidentally hit a piece of metal in the wood (yes, it happens) I imagine it will last a couple of years for the amount of use I give the blades. This blade looks so simple and "unsophisticated" but it doesn't need any "anti vibration slots" or "tension rings" or "cooling slots". It is a fine piece of American workmanship that really does do what the manufacturer says it will do. Very pleased with my purchase, and I highly recommend this blade to anyone who is even an occasional woodworker.

I bought the JET 708100 JWTS-10 WorkShop 10-Inch 1-1/2 Horsepower Contractor Saw from Amazon. I loved the saw, although the blade was awful for the finish type work I usually am accustomed to performing. I had always heard that the Forrest blades were the best, and after several hundred cuts (still sharp) I agree. The lack of splintering on a piece of ply is amazing for a 40 tooth blade. Highly recommended, will save you money in long run due to quality and versatility.

*In reference to my title, the George Lewis negative review about how the saw blade was a rip off because of lack of diamonds is what is wrong with the world. The Amazon price on this blade is a great value for the moderate to professional woodworker.

The Woodworker II blade replaced a Freud general purpose thin-kerf blade that was just OK. It caused occassional burns when ripped a burn-susceptible wood like cherry. The Forrest WWII (standard .125 kerf) does it all -- clean, burn-free rips in cherry, smooth cross cuts on hardwood, and smooth surfaces on both sides of cuts in solid core plywood. It's unusual to find a product that handles multiple tasks as well they would be handled by several single-purpose tools. This one really does it all. I have a 1-HP Delta contractor's saw and the WWII blade seems expensive, but it's worth the cost.

I own a couple of these now and they are great. Very smooth cutting and low noise. Will be doing business with Forrest for years to come.

I have had the Forrest Woodworker II saw blade now for over 1 year, and I can say it is the best blade I have ever owned. Furthermore, I would never use anything else from now on for routine crosscuts, and ripping. If you have never used this blade, you don't know what you have been missing.

This is a really nice table saw blade. It cross cuts and rips very cleanly. I do get some slight burning but I think it's my technique, not the blade.

I am a full-time professional woodworker, specializing (for the moment) in smaller furniture items like Jewelry Boxes, End Tables, etc., but I have also produced large, high-end products such as Sideboards Hutches to match. I don't claim to be a master - any time I get a big head I only need look at the Thos. Moser catalog to realize that even after 20 years I've still got a lifetime of learning ahead. My point is that the work I do looks - and sells - a whole lot better if the cuts match up as close to perfectly as the eye can detect, and the Forrest Woodworker II - along with every other Forrest product I own, is the best tool I've found to produce such cuts, repeatedly, without constant tuning or resharpening. Also, the folks at Forrest offer a resharpening (and re-balancing, if necessary,) service far superior to any other I've ever found, and they will sharpen/balance even my blades from OTHER MANUFACTURERS in the same 'special' way they sharpen their own, vastly improving, in my opinion, the quality of cut produced by these blades. If I could only afford one woodcutting blade for my 10-inch saw, it would be this one, the thicker of the two 40-tooth blades in the Woodworker II line. If this blade is too pricey for you, I'd strongly suggest buying the best blade you CAN afford, and shipping it to Forrest for resharpening as soon as it starts to cut imperfectly. One of the great things about the Forrest resharpening service is that they give you the option of having the blade tested for optimum balance, and then they will hand-tension, straighten and balance it ONLY if the blade needs it, and in my experience they are honest about when this service is actually required. These folks, in my opinion, are about the best blademakers out there. What more can I say?

My woodworker husband loves these blades; we buy at least one a year so he has them on hand for projects. Amazon's service and price can't be beaten!

After reading the reviews and waiting for the right project, I was disappointed in the way the Woodworker II blade burned Brazilian Cherry from the very first cut. Thinking there might be something wrong with this particular blade, I purchased a second one at a local woodworkers' store. The result was the same. My Freud blades performed better but were both dull by the time we unveiled the new stairs and railing. I saved hours of sanding by giving up on the Woodworker II. It may be the best blade in the world for certain applications. If you have one of those, buy it. If you want to rip hard woods that burn easily, consider an alternative.

I have only used a few times but it is a great blade. The quality it seems would surpass that of other manufactures. I feel at this point I will stay with Forrest for saw blade needs in the future.

This blade is all that and more. The best table saw blade I have ever used. If your piece is straight line just glue it. Yes, the cut is that good.

Forrest blades are always well-made but I would suggest you purchase their latest blade as this one will leave triangle shaped bottle that you must flatten out with a chisel. Forrest has redesigned their news blade with flat tooth to remove the triangle shaped wood.

I bought one of these a few years ago and have to say of all my blades this is the best. When it's fresh, it really leaves an edge that requires no sanding. This blade is fantastic at both rip and cross cuts. FYI it is an ATB blade and does not leave a flat bottom to it's kerfs if you do any non-though cuts like for splines.

The only problem with the blade is that I can't get one. I ordered this item from Amazon with overnight shipping because I was in a pinch and received the thin 3/32" kerf version WW10407100, which because of my splitter situation I can't use. I returned it only to receive the wrong item again a week later! The item number on the shipping slip doesn't even match the item number on my order. This time I'm returning it for a refund.

Cuts are not glassy smooth, but they're much better than those from the relatively cheap Oldham blade that I had previously. -has too many teeth for ripping hard maple--tends to burn. I'd buy another.

I have been using Forrest blades for years. They are the all around best. I believe they have saved me time and money, well worth the investment. I have Forrest blades in three table saws and two miter saws and I just bought my second set of Datto blades (one for the jobsite saw). While the price hurts, the performance and durability makes up for it many times over. I have a rack of other fine blades that never get used.

Well, I had a chance to use my first Forrest 1/8" WW2 blade last night on my 3hp Unisaw. It truly cuts like butter and leaves an excellent surface finish. First, on prefinished veneer particalboard it did not chip on the bottom, but left a slightly rough finish. Cutting slower reduces the "roughness". This performed almost as good as my dedicated 80T melamine blade. Certainly wouldn't be afraid to use it on short runs (to avoid switching out blades). The first difference that I noticed was the mirror finish on the carbide tips. This blade appears to have been sharpened to a very high grit, which reduces drag and allows you to cut more efficiently. I was doing a bunch of resawing of 6" rock maple (buring the blade by 2 1/4", vertically). This blade cut with very little resistance or strain on the motor during resawing. For comparison I mounted my premium 24T ripping blade and found that it was quite noticeably slower, and was straining the motor. I could have resawn continuously all day with the WW2, but would have had to give the saw a brake with the Dimar 24T rip blade. Quite impressed.

I am now considering upgrading my 12" Delta miter saw blade to a Chopmaster. It cuts 4/4 x 6" maple, slowly. Based on what I've seen with the WW2, I imagine that it would crosscut like butter - extending the life of my motors. I am also re-considering having my blade sharpened locally, as don't get a mirror finish after they sharpen it, they probably only shapen to 200 or 400 grit, as opposed to 2000+ grit.

I ordered this blade for my new table saw after reading all the reviews so I ordered the blade from Amazon and I installed in table saw and went to test cut and all it did is smoke and burn the wood! I stoped the saw and took a look at the blade , I could see that the blade was never factory sharped!!! I under stand that this might be the world's greatest blade but I did not receive that I got some factory defect or seconds I don't know? When you pay this much money you would think that there would be better quality control!

All I need to say is the Forrest saw blade is the finest blade I have ever used. I have been a woodworker for 25 years using mostly hardwoods and have invested alot of money on other very high quality saw blades. In all honesty the Forrest blade is the only one that lives up to its reputation of long lasting durability, sharpness, and gives the most accurate cuts in hardwoods. When it is time for the blade to be resharpen, I will send it back to Forrest and I know it will be done right.

This is a phenonmenal blade. This was a replacement of the OEM blade (not bad but could be better). At first I gulped at the price but 20% off sweetened the deal. Net only 30 bucks more than the next step down. I've only done some "playing around" with it but found other reviewers were right that it will produce a cut ready to join. I'm not one to buy the most expensive thing on the block but try to be moderate. This is truely "the right tool for the job."

The quietest, best cutting blade I've ever had. This is a spare for my other Woodworker II since I don't want to deal with other blades when I need to get one sharpened. One look at all the carbide on these teeth and one cut through a piece of wood and you'll be hooked.

So far, this may be the best saw blade I've owned. I've done both crosscutting and ripping on it, and I've had no hiccups or burning. I'm getting a beautiful smooth crosshatch pattern on my cuts, and the blade is maintaining sharpness very well. When I finally send this off to Forrest to be sharpened, I will likely buy another so that I'm not out of a blade in the meantime!

I got the Woodworker II about 1 week ago for my Jet contractor table saw. Before I used the blade, I first tunned up my table saw using a micrometer, to make sure my review would be less biased.

I set the blade to be within 3 thousandths to the miter guage. Then I tuned up the fence to miter slot to be within 1/1000th with a micrometer. After this the blade cut well, but didn't sound any quieter (that some people have reported)

I compared the blade vs. my Dewalt 3215 10" blade. The Dewalt blade is supposed to be designed to be as good as the Woodworker blade. I choose pine since softwoods are actually harder to cut smoothly than hardwoods (that's why woodworker's like hardwoods - they machine easier).

To the feel of the hand I found the cuts to be the same. Using a 10x loupe I found the Woodworker II to be a slightly better cut. However, one could definately see the circular blade marks from either blade with the loupe. To the naked older(50's) eye, you have to look at the cut in strong light holding the wood at a sharp angle to the light to see a hint of the marks.

The carbide teeth are slightly larger on the Wodworker II vs Dewalt, so it should last longer (if you are one to get your blades resharpened). The blade comes with a nice 3 page "how to get the best out of your new blade" instructions. DeWalt simply has "how to use" on the back of their packaging but their printing process is less legible.

If you can get the Woodworker II discounted below the normal price, then I think it should be considered. However, the Dewalt Series 40 blades are very good too, and tend to be more reasonably priced.

I bought this after reading all the positive reviews because I literally have a ton of hard maple to rip and am building lots of cabinets requiring furniture grade ply. I want accurate cuts with no tear out.

The carbide tips feel and look of premium quality.The blade is noticeably heavier than my other 4 blades. The heft of blade compared to others probably accounts for half of the ripping power this blade offers do to its rotational mass. It would slice your finger off with no problem. Over all I have used it for 2 days of cutting so far and definitely notice a difference over my other premium blades that I had bought before spending the money on this.

I am using a crosscut sled to cut my cabinet bottoms and stretchers to exact length. When using this I am getting tear out on the bottom of the plywood. I did not get this tear out with my other 60 tooth blade. It is noticeable. However, when not using the cross cutting sled and ripping the same plywood it saws flawlessly through the wood.

My feed rate has increased with out a doubt. It leaves a good edge on the maple and certainly a better cut than the 24 tooth blade I was using before.

Is it the all in one blade??? I would have to saw no. I am not all that satisfied with the crosscut on ply. It does the job just fine on hardwoods though.

So all in all, if you are using this for hardwoods it is exceptional. If you are ripping, this blade is perfect. My only beef is that the crosscut on plywood is not where I need it to be. I will use my 60 tooth for this.

Overall I believe it is a great addition to my shop and it will be in the saw 75 percent of the time. I am suprised more people do not have this issue.

And yes, it is a zero clearance kerf on the sled.

Title says it all. I was a doubter but after using these on a cheapie underpowered contractors table saw and a cabinet saw I BELIEVE. Give new life to your table saw buy a WWII.

Excellent blade, is the finest I've ever used. I've tried numerous others, but none compare to Forrest. The only blades I use now are Forrest, including my dado. It will slice through any hardwood easier than cutting paper!

Note: When considering shipping always order this either 1 or 2 day shipping (UPS or FedEx). Standard shipping ships via USPS (not UPS or FedEx), and 3-5 days is more like 21 days (to the next state which is only a 2hr drive w/ DC traffic)!!!

When I decided to buy the Forrest WW II saw blade, it was largely on the strength of what others have reported. Since using it, their reports have proven true. The blade's superiority becomes evident immediately.

Simply stated; the blade is outstanding, producing clean, smooth and straight cuts. Far, far superior to any blade I've used before.

I'll be buying another for use when I send this to Forrest for re-sharpening.